THE GIST:
A brief discussion about the best product ingredients for eczema plagued skin.
LET’S DISCUSS…
Eczema is an inflammatory autoimmune disease that causes dry, scaly and itchy patches on the face and body. For us, black and brown folk these patches are dark purplish-blue and gray and which can cause hyperpigmentation long after a flare up.
If you are an eczema sufferer, I am sure you know there are some ingredients you can’t use and while that list is a long one, I’ve put one together of all the good ingredients you should be looking for in your skincare products if you’ve got this itchy condition. You’re welcome fam’!
Photo Credit: Taisiia Stupak
Cleansers:
This is where eczema sufferers should place their foremost product ingredient focus. Some cleansers contain ingredients that can be all too irritating to eczema flareups and can strip the skin of its natural moisture and oils, causing it to feel tight and itchy making the flareup worse. Since cleansing is the first step of any skincare routine, you’ll want to make sure the ingredients used don’t wreak havoc and discontent for the rest of the regimen. Here you want to focus on nourishing ingredients that gently cleanse yet hydrate the skin.
Ingredients for Cleansers
Aloe Vera
Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe) Leaf Extract
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Glycerin
Goat Milk
Milk Powders
Some Fruit and Flower Extracts
Sorbic Acid
Types of Cleansers
Gel or Water-Based Cleansers
Cream Cleansers
Nourishing Soap Bars
WARNING: Shameless brand promotion here, if you haven’t tried real African Black Soap, then you are missing out on supreme eczema relief! You should try the NWÄR Skin, Inc. African Black Soap which is available for purchase.
Toners:
Many toners on the market can be extremely drying to eczema so be sure your toner is a hydrating one. Water-based toners can do wonders at keeping the skin nourished and properly prepped to be receptive to healthy ingredients to follow.
Ingredients for Toners
Hyaluronic Acid
Sodium Hyaluronate
Witch Hazel
Types of Toners
Water-Based Toners
Exfoliants
Generally, exfoliants aren’t friendly to eczema skin and can further agitate symptoms, especially if applied during an active flare up. Physical exfoliants such as facial scrubs may be too harsh on the skin and cause fine fissures and tears in the skin that can later become open wounds when left dry and untreated. Chemical exfoliants, on the other hand, can aggravate your flareup and cause a more severe outbreak, since the varying ingredients used can do more harm than good. It’s quite tricky exfoliating with eczema but it can be done. Your best bet is gentle physical and plant-based exfoliants. Be sure you don’t scratch or scrub but ever-so-gently smooth the product onto your skin as not irritate the area.
Ingredients for Exfoliants
Fruit Powders
Milk Powders
Oat Powders
Plant Powders
Rice Powders
Sugar
Types of Exfoliants
Gentle Physical Exfoliants
Tip: It is best to avoid using any exfoliating products during an active eczema flareup, no matter how good the product claims to be at offering relief. That goes for electric cleansing brushes, sponges, pads and body scrubs.
Serums
When using the right serums, they can help intensify and maximize the hydrating properties of moisturizers and toners for eczema plagued skin. Think hydration here as well, you’ll want something that can increase your skin’s chances at retaining moisture and balanced water levels.
Ingredients for Serums
Arbutin
Fruit Extracts
Hyaluronic Acid
Glycerin
Niacinamide
Types of Serums
Copper or Gel Based Serums
Moisturizers
This step of the routine is where you’ll get most of your benefits and if quenched properly you’ll get an all-day relief you can brag about. Moisturizing is the second to the last step of most skincare routines so you’ll want the ingredients here to count. Look for thick, heavy moisturizers, and the thicker the better.
Ingredients for Moisturizers
Beeswax
Calendula
Cocoa Butter
Evening Primrose Oil
Glycerin
Fruit Oils
Niacinamide
Palm Oil
Palm Kernel Oil
Petroleum
Shea Butter
Seed Oils
Sodium Hyaluronate
Types of Moisturizers
Cream or Oil-Based Moisturizers
Sun Protection
Don’t skip this last step! It can be all to easy to follow that dangerous myth that melanin skin doesn’t need sun protection but it most certainly does and always will. Keep your melanin protected with the following:
Ingredients for Sun Protection
Gluconolactone
Zinc Oxide
Types of Sun Protection
Physical Sunblock
Chemical Sunscreen
Instant Relief
You need immediate relief and you needed it yesterday. Yes, friend I understand. Here are a few ingredients that are sure to grant you that instant relief you so desperately need.
Aloe Vera
Almond Oil
Carbonis Detergens
Cocoa Butter
Coconut Oil
Colloidal Oats
Green Tea
Honey
Lanolin
Shea Butter
Tea Tree Oil (Diluted it with purified water please!)
Extras
Here are a few more ingredients that are friendly to eczema and sensitive skin types. Using these will also help to manage flare ups and keep them at bay.
Antioxidants Vitamins B, C, and E
Beta Carotene
Fatty Triglycerides
Plant Extracts
Saturated and Unsaturated fats
Seed Oils
What to Avoid:
Some ingredients can trigger an eczema flareup so it’s best to avoid these altogether:
Alcohol
Astringents
Butylparaben
Dyes
Fragrances
Glycolic Acid
Methylparaben
Retinol
Salicylic Acid
Scents
Treating Hyperpigmentation and Discoloration After a Flare up:
After an eczema flare up and depending on how you treated your skin during that time, it can oftentimes cause hyperpigmentation and discoloration at the site of the irritation. In keeping with my pledge to not use skin bleaching or whitening agents in my brand or to promote them on the blog, here’s a list of safe ingredients that effectively treat hyperpigmentation:
Gluconolactone
Morus Alba (Mulberry) Root Extract
Pisum Sativum (Pea) Extract
Shea Butter
Vitamin C and E
If your over the counter topical creams and products are no longer working, it may be time to see the medical professionals. You‘ll need to keep up to date with the frequency of your flareups and how often those take place. Also, keep in mind what may be the cause of those triggers and what you’ve used in the past to treat them. Your doctor will most likely prescribe a topical steroid cream to keep your flareups at bay, but get the clinical data of using those prescribed creams over a long period of time. You don’t want to create an immunity to the drugs, rendering your condition tougher to treat.
Have you had a recent eczema flareup and found a certain product or ingredient that worked for you? Don’t keep your success secret, share it in the comments section below!
My name is Chandra Davis and I am the owner of NWÄR STUDIOS, INC. and the creator of NWÄR Skin, Inc. I am also the sole author of the blog #ASKTHESKINTICIAN, LLC. and I am excited to share my knowledge, experience, and expertise on all things skincare as it relates to the melanin-rich. As the Skintician, it is my mission to create diversity and inclusion in an industry that has historically excluded people of color from the conversations of beauty.