NWÄR Skin The Licorice Root Cleanser: What’s the scoop?

Aqua (Purified Water)

Ah yes, nature’s own cleanser, aqua or water as most of us might say; literally washes away dirt, oil, and other impurities which is why it debuts first in the formula. Water is the main ingredient because of its cleansing and hydrating properties for the skin.

Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate

It’s a mouthful I know, and at first glance seems like it’s a harsh ingredient that may not be the best for the skin. But fear not my friend, sodium lauroyl methyl isethionate is a coconut derived, a water-soluble surfactant that happens to be sulfate-free. Its molecules are too large, so it cannot penetrate the skin causing irritation. It debuts as the second ingredient because it’s what gives this cleanser its foaming and lathering abilities.

Cocamidopropyl Betaine

Another coconut oil derivative, cocamidopropyl betaine is a surfactant common in many liquid-based cleansers. Surfactants remove dirt and oil by reducing surface tension making it easier to wet the skin and allowing the water to wash away impurities. This ingredient doesn’t cause irritation to the skin and it’s used here as a thickening and foaming agent for the cleanser.

Sodium Methyl Oleoyl Taurate, Lauryl Glucoside and Coco-Glucoside

So how else would you expect a get a foaming cleanser to um, you know, foam? Sodium methyl oleoyl taurate, lauryl glucoside, and coco-glucoside are mild surfactants and foaming agents, derived from the salt of the coconut’s fatty acids, fruit sugar, lipids, and coconut oil respectively. If you haven’t noticed the trend here, I will let you in on a little secret, I absolutely love coconut oil and coconut based skincare products!

Gluconolactone

Gentler than glycolic or lactic acid, gluconolactone is the perfect acid alternative for those with sensitive or mature skin. Most people don’t know this, but people of darker complexions often have highly sensitive skin, especially when it comes to discoloration. Gluconolactone helps to protect skin from UV radiation all while reducing the appearance of hyperpigmentation, aging, and the roughness of skin.

Sodium Benzoate

A fruit-based preservative, sodium benzoate is a salt of benzoic acid, derived from cranberries, plums, apples, and cloves. This doubles as a fragrance ingredient, and anti-corrosive agent, so you can be sure that your skin won’t be irritated by harsh synthetic fragrances.

Calcium Gluconate

A bone’s best friend, calcium is an essential mineral for the body. But it also has its benefits for your melanated layer. Some research has shown that calcium gluconate is soothing and restorative for the skin.

Sodium Hydroxide

If you have ever relaxed your hair, you’ve seen sodium hydroxide as the main ingredient to permanently straighten our kinks and coils. Street named lye, it is highly alkaline and is commonly found in many cosmetics. We needed it here to hold the pH of the cleanser and to maintain the integrity of the product. But don’t worry there isn’t enough here to cause sensitivities, irritation or that dreaded chemical burn, ouch.

Bellis Perennis (Daisy) Blossom Extract

An often overlooked, yet a common plant, the daisy flower is going to be your skin’s new best friend. The daisy flower extracts inhibit tyrosine (this amino acid is what gives the skin its natural color) by as much as 50% while preventing hyperpigmentation. It’s the perfect alternative to hydroquinone and other harsh skin whitening agents and is least likely to irritate the skin. It’s loaded with tartaric and malic acids, which are known to exfoliate dead skin cells and increase cell turnover. It also has antiseptic and anti-bacterial properties and is known for repairing skin tissue. Who would’ve known this common garden plant would be capable of so many things!

Glycerin

One of my favorite humectants, glycerin is good for all things hydration! It attracts moisture from the air and onto the skin keeping it super hydrated and supple.

Melissa Officinalis Leaf Extract

The melissa officinalis leaf extract comes from the leave of the balm mint plant. It comes packed with antioxidant, anti-bacterial and antiseptic properties to soothe and heal the skin. This ingredient is added to help prevent future breakouts and lessen the severity of currents ones.

Kojic Acid

Kojic acid is the best ingredient for skin conditions like sun damage, melasma, scars, and aging. Derived from various fungi (yea, I know, so gross), it affects melanin production by inhibiting the amino acid tyrosine from forming thus suppressing melanin production. Kojic acid is the perfect alternative to hydroquinone especially for darker skin tones as it doesn’t actively “whiten” the skin. When used in high concentrations it can be irritating to the skin, but not to worry in the Licorice Root Cleanser that amount is about one (1) percent.

Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate

Another hydration ingredient for the win! Potassium azeloyl diglycinate is a water-soluble derivative of azelaic acid. This ingredient is easier to use in this cleansing formula rather than pure azelaic acid since it tends to play well with other active and inactive ingredients and won’t disturb its pH balance. More hydration equals healthy, happy skin!

Morus Alba (Mulberry) Root Extract

Mulberry root extract is another ingredient chosen to help reduce hyperpigmentation and discoloration. It works well with other melanin suppressants such as the aforementioned kojic acid, the soon to be discussed licorice root extract and my other favorite ingredient alpha-arbutin not listed here. This extract works wonders for hair and hair follicles and its known to have antioxidant and cleansing properties. This was added to the cleanser for an extra boost to finally put scarring and discoloration to rest.

Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract

Now for the big kahuna! Glycyrrhiza Glabra root extract, otherwise known as licorice root, and the name chosen for the cleanser, really helps to summarize all the common pain points of cyclical acne and scarring. Licorice root is anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, calms and soothes irritated skin, controls excessive oil production, moisturizes dry skin and wait for it… helps to reduce hyperpigmentation! This extract is a must have for us melanated folk as it focuses on our common skin issues. Double thumbs up since it’s gentle enough for even the most sensitive skin.

Ocimum Basilicum (Basil) Oil

This oil was the last ditch effort to help control and minimize acne flareups and other bacterial overgrowths. Basil oil is known to help in treating acne and skin infections, so I wanted to be sure that your visible breakouts end at the first step of the skincare routine, the cleansing phase.

Aromatic Extract

Aromatic extracts are a blend of botanical extracts from various plant species. It’s the best alternative to irritating fragrances and scents as they are natural and less likely to create skin sensitivities.