NWÄR Skin The Melanin Protection: What’s the scoop?

Aqua (Purified Water)

A natural hydrator, water is the best option for keeping skin moist and supple. But just because water is listed as the first ingredient here doesn’t mean half the contents are water, it’s used here to properly mix together the following ingredients for smooth application.

Zinc Oxide

Zinc Oxide is the actual defender of skin from harmful UVA and UVB rays in this formula. The zinc oxide absorbs these rays and reflects them back into the environment. This is to ensure that the UVA and UVB rays aren’t allowed into your skin to produce free radical damage causing wrinkles, premature aging, and cancer. Zinc oxide is also perfect in preventing hyperpigmentation and melasma from getting progressively worse.

Octyl Methoxycinnamate

An active sunscreen ingredient, octyl methoxycinnamate is effective at absorbing UVB but not UVA rays. The UVB rays are the sunburn-causing rays while UVA rays are the ones that have been linked to aging and cancer. This ingredient works in conjunction with zinc oxide to protect and prevent your skin from absorbing the sun’s harsh UVB rays.

Glycerin

A humectant like glycerine keeps skin hydrated by attracting water and moisture from the air and drawing it into the skin. This ingredient is necessary to ensure the skin gets the proper hydration as the zinc oxide and octyl methoxycinnamate combats the sun’s UVA and UVB rays.

Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil

Rich in antioxidants and Vitamins A, B C and E, sunflower oil is perfect for neutralizing free radicals that may enter the pores and cause damage. It also reduces excessive sebum (oil) production which is excellent to prevent acne and breakouts. This oil is light enough to be absorbed in the skin but not heavy enough to block pores.

Cetearyl, Arachidyl and Behenyl Alcohol

For simplicity, I lumped these alcohols together since in this formula they effectively do the same thing. You’d think these ingredients would be drying to the skin, but they’re actually not. These alcohols are emulsifying agents meant to keep the ingredients in the product from separating while it sits in your medicine cabinet waiting to be used.

Propanediol

Usually derived naturally from corn, propanediol is a glycol used to enhance the absorption of ingredients into the skin, particularly chemical exfoliants. It is also known for its hydrating properties, keeping the skin moist and supple.

Glyceryl Stearate

Glyceryl Stearate comes from glycerin and stearic acid and acts as an emulsifier to keep ingredients like water and oil dispersed or mixed together. This is ingredient doubles as a lubricant for the skin and prevents water loss. Triple thumbs up for this substance since it can be found naturally in the human body.

Coco-Caprylate

You may know this ingredient as the “slip” feeling you get when applying silky conditioners in your hair; the same applies to the skin. Coco-Caprylate is derived from coconut oil and is meant in this formula, to condition the skin, help evenly spread the product and hydrate.

Laurel Lactate

An emollient and AHA exfoliant, laurel lactate is a naturally occurring acid used in many personal care products.

Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter)

Another popular ingredient in the melanated skincare world, you can find shea butter in everything from hair care to makeup. Produced by the vitellaria tree, found primarily in the motherland (that’s Africa if you don’t know), shea butter acts as a barrier on the skin to prevent water loss and relieves dry and rough patches on the skin. Did y’all know that shea butter naturally absorbs harmful UVB rays and protects the skin from the sun? Ah yes, one of the many unanswered secrets as to why black doesn’t crack! Come through shea, come through…

Polyacrylamide

A binder and product thickener, polyacrylamide is needed here to thicken this formula and bring together all of the oils and extracts.

C13-14 Isoparaffin

Isoparaffin is a mineral oil substitute that acts as an emollient and moisturizer to prevent water loss from the skin.

Laureth-7

Derived from lauric acid, Laureth-7 is a natural fatty acid used in many beauty products as a surfactant or emulsifier. Here it is an emulsifier, as it keeps the aforementioned ingredients mixed together and evenly throughout the product.

Bellis Perennis (Daisy) Flower Extract

An often overlooked, yet a common plant, the daisy flower is going to be your skin’s new best friend. The daisy flower extracts inhibit tyrosine (this amino acid is what gives the skin its natural color) by as much as 50% while preventing hyperpigmentation. It’s the perfect alternative to hydroquinone and other harsh skin whitening agents and is least likely to irritate the skin. It’s loaded with tartaric and malic acids, which are known to exfoliate dead skin cells and increase cell turnover. It also has antiseptic and anti-bacterial properties and is known for repair skin tissue. Who would’ve known this common garden plant would be capable of so many things.

Sodium Hyaluronate

A moisturizing agent that can hold up to 1000 times its weight in water, which means it helps the skin retain moisture. It also is a wound healing agent and prevents acne scarring.

Gluconolactone

Gentler than glycolic or lactic acid, gluconolactone is the perfect acid alternative for those with sensitive or mature skin. Most people don’t know this, but people of darker complexions often have highly sensitive skin, especially when it comes to discoloration. Gluconolactone helps to protect skin from UV radiation all while reducing the appearance of hyperpigmentation, aging, and the roughness of skin.

Sodium Benzoate

A fruit-based preservative, sodium benzoate is a salt of benzoic acid, derived from cranberries, plums, apples, and cloves. This doubles as a fragrance ingredient, and anti-corrosive agent, so you can be sure that your skin won’t be irritated by harsh synthetic fragrances.

1,2 Hexanediol

1,2-Hexanediol are mild preservatives preventing the growth of microorganisms and protecting the product from contamination.

Caprylyl Glycol

Caprylyl Glycol is an alcohol derived from caprylic acid, found in the milk of some mammals as well as palm and coconut oils. It is used in this formula for its antibacterial, antifungal, and anti-inflammatory properties.

Tropolone

Tropolone is a formula stabilizer and a skin conditioning substance. Derived from grapes and mushrooms, it can also have skin lightening effects by inhibiting tyrosinase, the protein that creates pigmentation.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

A humectant and a hydrating agent capric triglyceride is the result of coconut oil and glycerin. It’s the ultimate moisturizing ingredient for the skin as it replenishes the skin and prevents moisture loss.

Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax

Honeybees doing their best to keep our skin looking and feeling flawless. Beeswax here is to allow the emulsification of other ingredients to stay evenly dispersed in the product and create the thick creamy consistency needed for the creme.

Citric Acid

Citric acid is an effective exfoliant when applied topically and helps to increase cell turnover and slough off dead skin. This, in turn, helps reduce the appearance of acne scars, discoloration, and uneven tone and texture. It goes without that citric acid is derived from citrus fruits.

Persea Gratissima (Avacado) Fruit Oil

Seriously, is there anything avocadoes can’t do? The avocado fruit oil acts as an occlusive, meaning it helps to trap water and moisture onto the skin and prevent water loss.

Arachidyl, Decyl and Lauryl Glucoside

Arachidyl, Decyl and Lauryl Glucoside are can be used as surfactants or emulsifiers depending on the product’s intended use. Here these are emulsifying agents meant to keep the ingredients from separating and evenly dispersed throughout the product.

Alcohol

So here’s one of the not so good alcohols. Yes, I know what you’re thinking, why are there any ingredients that can be bad for the skin listed in your formulas? It is true that alcohol can be extremely drying to the skin and cause irritation, dryness, and breakouts but alcohol is used to make the creme feel lighter and doubles as a much-needed preservative for the ingredients listed. I needed this particular alcohol to reduce tackiness or stickiness of the oils and extracts and reduce drying time. Using alcohol hastens the speed of product absorption and in small amounts usually, don’t cause irritation.

We all know plant-based products are good for the skin especially when you need protection from the sun. Many plant extracts, oils and acids contain anti-aging properties which are extremely effective when you need protection from free radical damage and the sun’s harsh UVA and UVB rays. The Melanin Protection creme holds a unique blend of plant-based ingredients that deserve mention. At the risk of being redundant, I’m breaking down each substance and giving a brief blurb of its purpose.

Citrus Aurantium Bergamia (Bergamot) Fruit Extract

Reduces skin discoloration

Cupressus Sempervirens Leaf/Stem Extract

An effective skin conditioning agent.

Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract

An effective skin conditioning agent.

Eugenia Caryophyllus (Clove) Flower Extract

This is antimicrobial and prevents the growth of microorganisms

Rubus Idaeus (Raspberry) Fruit Extract

An effective antioxidant helps to prevent premature aging.

Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract

Smoothes and calms skin

Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Fruit Extract

An effective antioxidant helps to prevent premature aging and reduces discoloration and scars.

Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract

An effective antioxidant helps to prevent premature aging and helps to soothe irritated skin.

Citrus Aurantium Amara (Bitter Orange) Flower Extract

An effective skin conditioning and occlusive agent.

Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract

An effective antioxidant helps to prevent premature aging.

Salvia Officinalis (Sage) Leaf Extract

This is antiseptic and stimulating to the skin.

Tocopheryl Acetate

A chemical compound of acetic acid and tocopheryl, tocopheryl acetate is antioxidant and is meant to help free radical damage and help aid the wound healing process of the skin. I have to mention that in high doses and in prolonged use, tocopheryl acetate can be highly irritating to the skin. But don’t worry, it’s in small doses in this formula and shouldn’t cause you any problems.

Sodium Hydroxide Solution

While it holds no direct skin benefit for the user, sodium hydroxide holds the pH level of a product stable and doubles as a buffer and cleansing agent. The active ingredients here need to remain stable and I don’t want the product to become too acidic or basic. Too much of this ingredient can cause skin sensitivities but when used in low doses is completely safe.