The SkinticianTHE GIST:
A not so brief discussion of the differences between hyperpigmentation, discoloration, scarring, and dark marks and spots.
LET’S DISCUSS…
We see words like, “hyperpigmentation”, “discoloration,” and “scars” thrown around pretty regularly in the beauty industry and oftentimes they are used interchangeably in regards to product marketing. In general, there isn’t much of a difference in the meaning of these words from a consumer’s standpoint but from an Esthetician’s or a doctor’s view there are noticeable differences that must be addressed prior to treatment.
Before we start discussing the causes of discoloration and hyperpigmentation, let’s first talk about the differences from an Esthetician’s or medical professional’s standpoint:
Hyperpigmentation:
Hyperpigmentation is the overproduction of pigment or melanin in the skin. This usually occurs when the skin endures some type of trauma either externally or internally. A person suffering from hyperpigmentation will usually have dark areas on the skin and an uneven complexion.
Hypopigmentation:
Hypopigmentation is the opposite, there’s a loss of pigment on areas of the skin. Someone with hypopigmentation will have patches of skin that are much lighter than the surrounding area of skin. However, this condition is not to be confused with vitiligo, which is the loss of pigment due to an autoimmune disorder.
Discoloration:
Similar to hyperpigmentation and hypopigmentation, discoloration, on the other hand, occurs when one area of the skin is a different color, darker or lighter in comparison to the skin’s natural color, but not caused by trauma but rather genetics. In general, skin discoloration is common for those with birthmarks or moles.
Scarring:
Scarring is the discoloration of an area of the skin that has recently experienced trauma but can either be raised or flat. The main difference between scarring and hypo/hyperpigmentation is that too much collagen has been produced to heal the wound causing the texture of the skin to change, and not just the overproduction or loss of pigment.
Dark Spots and Marks:
Dark spots and dark marks are the layman’s terms for the aforementioned terms and are often used interchangeably by both the public and the beauty product companies.
For the purposes of this blog post, I will be using the word “discoloration” when explaining the causes and treatments for general pigment changes.
THE MAIN CAUSES OF SKIN DISCOLORATION:
There are five common causes generally used to explain skin discoloration.
Injury:
The most common reason for discoloration in the skin is injury or trauma. Injuries sustained internally or externally to the skin tend to cause noticeable changes in the consistency and complexion of the skin’s natural pigment. Such injuries include pimple popping, picking at scabs, burns, minor cuts, and scrapes. When the skin is broken or disrupted, it repairs itself by producing more collagen and melanin to aid the wounded area in the healing process.
Inflammation:
The type of discoloration caused by inflammation is most often attributed to acne. When acne forms it tends to do so under the skin causing inflammation and irritation of the affected area. The damage happens when you try to pop, squeeze or extract the pimple of the inflamed area and you end up rupturing nearby blood vessels and tissue. The scarring itself is your skin’s response to the trauma you’ve caused when trying to treat the inflammation, ie, the pimple. The scar usually develops in the dermis, the second layer of skin, causing an overproduction of collagen and melanin; leaving you with a raised discolored lump.
Illness:
Illnesses such as cancer can cause discoloration of the skin and is usually a common sign the disease is present. Other types of illnesses like fungal infection tinea Versicolor, candida and ringworm can all be the cause of discoloration.
Hormones:
Increased hormonal activity is known to cause discoloration and is common for pregnant women and nursing mothers. The increased production of estrogen and progesterone hormones trigger hyperpigmentation known as melasma nicknamed the “mask of pregnancy”. This discoloration is prominent on the forehead and can extend to one or both sides of the face.
Environmental Exposure:
Sun damage is another common reason for skin discoloration, and yes, melanated folk can and do suffer from sun damage, we are NOT exempt from the sun’s harsh rays. Sun exposure damages and kills skin cells, in an effort to protect itself from the sun, your skin produces more melanin to be absorbed by the sun rays. This extra melanin creates a darker area of skin which is often deeply rooted in the dermal layer and very difficult to correct with the use of topical only treatments.
Genetic:
For some people, discoloration stemming from genetics is not uncommon. Birthmarks, moles, and port-wine stains are harmless forms of discoloration on the skin and may sometimes go away on their own.
Photo Credit: Baylee Gramling
HOW TO TREAT GENERAL DISCOLORATION:
We will all suffer from discoloration at least at one point in our lives and usually, the issue will clear up on its own. It’s important that you take care not to intentionally damage your skin and avoid injuries, trauma and excessive sun exposure.
However, if you find yourself reading this post a little too late and you are hoping to treat your discoloration, you’ve got a few different options. It’s best to start with professional skin care services provided by a licensed Esthetician:
Professional Services:
Microdermabrasion:
Microdermabrasion is a moderately aggressive form of exfoliation. This service removes the top dead layer of skin cells and encourages the skin to regenerate new ones resulting in smoother more even complexion. This works well for mild discoloration.
Chemical Peels:
Chemical peels can be a mild or extremely aggressive form of exfoliation depending on who is performing the service. Peels are designed to chemically remove dead skin cells and encourage regeneration which in turn helps to alleviate discoloration. It should be said yet again for those who are equal parts hard-headed and cheap that chemical peels in any form should NOT be performed at home. Both Estheticians and dermatologists can perform chemical peels, however the stronger peels are best provided by a licensed dermatologist. This service well for moderate to aggressive discoloration.Microneedling:
The newest and latest beauty service craze right now is the micro-needling treatment. It involves making tiny puncture wounds in the skin with sterile needles. This encourages collagen production and regeneration of skin cells for a more even complexion. Another disclaimer, do NOT do this at home on yourself or anyone else for that matter, this service should only be performed by a licensed professional. Oh, and those micro-needling pens sold in stores are a joke, don’t waste your coins. This service is good for people with tough discoloration and severe acne scarring.
Laser Treatments:
Another promising service is laser treatments. Lasers are able to go beyond the primary layer of skin, the epidermis and into the second layer of skin, the dermis, to alleviate discoloration. Stubborn hyperpigmentation such as sun damage can oftentimes develop in the dermis and be very difficult to correct with topical treatments alone. Lasers are the best option for severe discoloration.
Created by Giphy
At-Home Treatments:
Oftentimes at-home skin therapy can be used in conjunction with professional services. However, you should always check with your Esthetician or doctor BEFORE incorporating these methods into your homecare routine.
Sugar and Salt-Based Scrubs:
Physical exfoliation works much the same way as chemical exfoliation in that it removes dead skin cells and promotes collagen stimulation. Using a gentle sugar or salt-based scrub once or twice a week can help keep your skin stimulated and encourage an even complexion.
OTC Topical Creams:
Vitamin A and E over the counter topical creams can help to reduce discoloration, but are best when used in conjunction with professional services.
Castor Oil Treatment:
A desperate act, but mildly effective, applying castor oil to directly to the discolored area can help to break up excess melanin, and yield an even complexion.
Holistic At-Home Care:
Eating fruits high in Vitamin C and drinking milk thistle tea can help to reduce discoloration from the inside out.
Created by Giphy
Product Ingredients to Look For:
I can’t very well talk about skincare products that are meant to correct hyperpigmentation and discoloration without talking about my brand. I mean, seriously, I created a whole line specifically for this issue so please do NOT excuse the shameless promotion I will be displaying in the next paragraph.
If you are looking to get rid of discoloration, I suggest trying the NWÄR Skin, Inc. Licorice Root Cleanser and Manamino Exfoliant. Both are meant to help alleviate hyperpigmentation, gently and safely without bleaching our melanated skin. Did I mention these are professional strength products that boast a 30% efficacy in treating discoloration. You’re welcome!
If you aren’t convinced by my products and would rather try another brand, no hard feelings here fam! I am all about educating my kinfolk on skincare rather than just selling them my products. I won’t promote another brand here on my blog but I will say its best to look for products that offer the following active ingredients:
Vitamin C
Alpha-Hydroxy Acids
Mandelic Acids
Daisy Blossom Extract
Mulberry Extract
It is both my professional and personal advice that you stay away from any skin bleaching and whitening agents. You can read my sentiments about these ingredients in another blog post coming soon. If you find any products that have the following ingredients, I strongly urge you to put it back on the shelf and walk away. You’ll thank me later.
Warning Ingredients:
Retinol (Vitamin A)
Hydroquinone
Cysteamine
When to Seek Medical Attention:
Most discoloration and hyperpigmentation don’t require a trip to the doctor but in some instances it most certainly does. Now I wouldn’t be worth my salt if I didn’t have a disclaimer at the end of this blog post about potential skin cancers, so I am making sure to do right by my kinfolk in mentioning it.
If you notice a change of ANY kind in your hyperpigmentation or discoloration, you NEED to see your doctor IMMEDIATELY. Changes in the size, color, shape, and appearance of your discoloration are worth mentioning to your physician and worth doing so ASAP. Melanated people are not exempt from skin cancer and having changes in your discoloration can be the first clue that something is amiss. When in doubt, check it out!
END RANT:
So there you have it! The causes and treatments of hyperpigmentation in melanated people, which I think I summed up pretty nicely. But tell me what you think in the comments below.
My name is Chandra Davis and I am the owner of NWÄR STUDIOS, INC. and the creator of NWÄR Skin, Inc. I am also the sole author of the blog #ASKTHESKINTICIAN, LLC. and I am excited to share my knowledge, experience, and expertise on all things skincare as it relates to the melanin-rich. As the Skintician, it is my mission to create diversity and inclusion in an industry that has historically excluded people of color from the conversations of beauty.
